EDINBURGH

Trail 5 - Beyond The Grassmarket

Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland and lies on the East coast on the Firth of Forth. The second highest population in Scotland it is the largest city by area. The city is famous for its architecture and design, both the old town and the new town are World Heritage sites. It has a world famous Castle and hosts the Edinburgh Festival (and Fringe) every year.

The easiest way to get to Edinburgh is by train to Waverley station. There is also the second last station which is Haymarket. These stations are at either end of Princes Street and Haymarket is the stop for Edinburgh's West End

 Edinburgh is a large city with many pubs spread over different areas of the town. Rose Street is a very popular drinking trail so I have ignored it and have introduced nine other pub trails based in Edinburgh. There is a short one viewing pubs at the Grassmarket (red icons) and two slightly longer (or one very long) starting at Haymarket station towards Lothian Rd (green icons) or Princes Street to Haymarket (yellow icons) taking in pubs in the West End and Lothian Road triangle.

All of the pubs are highlighted on the map below.

Now added is a trail Around Bread St, (blue icons) linking West End trails to The Grassmarket Trail and a trail going Beyond The Grassmarket (purple icons) and The Royal Mile (brown icons).

There are also trails in The Cowgate (dark blue icons), heading to The Southside (orange icons) and around Waverley Station (light Blue Icons)

 This tour of the pubs (purple icons) starts after trail 3 has left The Grassmarket or, alternatively, it can be started at the top of the Royal Mile, but do not go down The Royal Mile as that is trail 6

 At the top of the Royal Mile there is a roundabout leading off the Royal Mile to Johnston Terrace which has The Castle Arms pub. Exit this pub from its downstairs door onto a balcony which overlooks The Bow Bar. Walk along the balcony and down a flight of stairs to West Bow to reach The Bow Bar. Leaving here walk down hill and go round to the left rather than join The Grassmarket Trail.

Going round to the left you see Bar Salsa across the street. After here walk up the hill towards the Candlemarket. This takes you past a corner pub Oz Bar After Oz Bar continue walking up the hill to find the Greyfriars Bobby bar. Continue up this road keeping to the right to go round the corner and as you walk along find, on a corner, the small but nice, Sandy Bell's. Across the road from here is Malone's. then walk on to the next corner where there is The Doctors.

Continue round the corner at The Doctors and walk down the street, crossing at Bristo Place, and at the next corner are Boteco Do Brazil and Paradise Palms.

Return to Bristo Place and turn right along it and this will take you back past Greyfriars Bobby. Crossing the road just beyond the statue is a church converted to Frankenstein's and then cross the road for George IV Bar by the bridge part of the road.

Pub Facts

 

A place this size is bound to have its own guides to illustrate the vast quantity, quality and styles of pubs.

CAMRA in Edinburgh

Many of the pubs do serve real ale and while a lot of pubs offer a choice of real ale some only offer one which is inevitably Deuchers. Quite often these pubs are only playing at selling real ale and the Deuchers is not as tasty as it can be.

 

Practically every pub offers food at lunch or all day

  The Castle Arms

 The Castle Arms is a large busy bar offering food and good beer. Although an old pub the layout and decor have a modern feel. It has an attractive downstairs outside area on a terrace.

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks

Have a pint here

real ale    : Deuchers, Pumpkin Ale, Edinburgh No3, Copper Cascade (all Stewarts)

 heavy       : Belhaven Best

lager         :Stella, Tennent’s, Lieff, Carling,

cider         : Magners; Stowford Press                                           Guinness

Pub Jukebox:

Alcohol themed music to listen to while you browse.

tequila - Pee Wee Herman

The Bow Bar ★

The Bow Bar is a one roomed drinking bar. bar at back right. Seating at front windows and left-hand side. Entertainment is talking as there is no Tv or music. Lots of malts

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks

Regular in Good Beer Guide (CAMRA) - last 2022

Scottish Licensed Trade News Award “Best Craft Beer Bar” 2022 (sponsored Molson Coors)

Have pint here

real ale     : No3 (Llowhammer);  Pentland; Edinburgh Pale Ale;    October Zest; Muldoon Octoberfest; Grapevine Tryst (Fallen  Brewery)

heavy        : Belhaven Best; Joker IPA

lager         : Fustenberg

 cider                                                         Guinness

 Bar Salsa

Bar Salsa is another a small one roomed pub with little to attract it except very cheap drink. These prices are not Edinburgh prices. There is nothing remotely dance like or South American in here. Not very welcoming, not attractive - you get what you don't pay for.

Outside seating by road.

A must for a half pint

heavy          :Bellhaven Best

lager           :Tennent’s;  Carlsberg

cider           : Magners                                     Guinness

 Oz Bar

Oz Bar -  Australian of course. Wooden tables, floor, seats etc. Lots of seating and lots of standing area. Pool is very popular. Actually, has some Australia product. A popular and friendly venue.

Have a half pint here

heavy        : Belhaven Best

lager         :Carlsberg;  Staroperamen; Tennent’s

cider         : Somerset Cider                           Guinness

PLACES TO VISIT WITH PUBTRAILS

 The towns and villages highlighted on this web site have a wide variety of pubs and beers in them.  All of the places are great to visit, whether for a day or longer, and most have tourist attractions for all of the family.

There is a large variety of pubs throughout the different towns shown below. Some you may wish never to visit again but even discovering these can be interesting. There are pubs that you would not take your wife into. While some you could not take your girlfriend into. A few you would not take either into. However, most of the pubs are very pleasant.

HOME MAP of places visited

Alnwick Ambleside Anstruther Bakewell Bamburgh Barnard Castle Bath Berwick upon Tweed Birnam & Dunkeld Bourton on the Water Bowness on Windermere Bridge of Allan Chester Chichester Dunblane Dunoon Edinburgh Ely Fort William Glasgow Gourock Greenock                   Helensburgh Inverness Kelso Keswick Knaresbourgh Largs Linlithgow Lyme Regis Melrose Montrose Newton Stewart North Berwick Norwich Oban Pebbles Penzance Portree Pitlochry Quorn Richmond Rothesay St Andrews Seahouses Seend Shrewsbury Skipton Stirling Stratford-upon-Avon Stockton Heath Whitby Windemere Whitstable York

 Greyfrair's Bobby

Greyfrair's Bobby is part of the Nicolson's chain. Bar is straight in the door and has some seating for those waiting for a meal – up a few steps to the dining area. Small seating area for drinkers to the right. Not a lot of room for standing at the bar for any length of time. Seating outside on large pavement area

Have a pint here

real ale    : Deuchers;  Dragonhead;  Nicolson’s Pale Ale; Viking Ale    (Loch Lomond); Prophecy (Bath)

heavy       :

lager         :San Miguel; Tennent’s;  Peroni; Carling;

cider         : Aspinal                                           Guinness

 Sandy Bell's ★

Sandy Bell's is small and narrow bar partially split in two by small screen and archway. Very traditional old pub. A centre for Folk music in Edinburgh. Can get busy but service is always good.

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks - books

One of Scotland's Heritage pubs - CAMRA - books

Good Beer Guide 2023

Have one here

real ale     : Bitter & Twisted; Red MacGregor;  Ossian

heavy        : Caledonian Best;  McEwan’s Export

lager         :Tennent’s;  Bud

cider         : Addlestone Cloudy                   Guinness

MacSorley’s was Malones

Malones now McSorley’s Irish bar is an obviously Irish pub with the usual Irish decor. It set in an old church which makes a good and large music venue. Live music most nights.

The bar has a dormitory hostel above it.

Have a pint here

heavy           :Belhaven Best; Deuchers

lager            :Bud; Tennent’s;  Staroperaman; Heiniken;  Innes & Gunn Lager beer

cider             :Magners                                    Guinness

 The Doctors

The Doctors was a Taylor Walker pub making a good attempt at traditional pub venue though not quite losing the gastropub chain feel.  Attractively set out it is popular for food and quite busy A lot of of push and shove at the bar. Thought at prices you need to sit down for. Now a Belhaven pub so prices should have improved.

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks - books

Have pint here

real ale    :Vital Spark;  Barney’s;   Junction (Sambrookes); Flying    Scotsman; Peter’s Well; Schiehallion

lager        :Carling; Staroperamen;  Tennent’s; Stella

 cider        :Aspall                                                 Guinness

Pub Quiz

Which Devon resort is named after a novel?   

Answer at foot of page

 Bateco Do Brazil

Bateco Do Brazil has a large outside seating area. Inside is a dining-cocktail bar. The small servery is immediately to the right. This has some seating opposite it. Beyond this front area is a larger dining area with booths on the left

Have a half pint

Lager:                    Brahma; Hoegarden; Amstel;

Cider:     Strongbow                                          Guinness

 Paradise Palms

Paradise Palms right next door, also has a large outside seating area. There is some seating immediately inside the door then stairs down to the right and a long tall serving counter along the left-hand wall. opposite the servery counter is a dark area with lots of small intimate round tables. Hanging above the bar counter are hundreds of cuddly toys and what seems like the start of a collection of cameras hanging down. The low ceiling also has Hawaiian shirts stabled to it. An interesting bar with lots going on in it.

It is also a record store and record label, and runs all sorts of events from book clubs to bingo, Poetry nights to Date nights

Have a pint

Craft Ale:             Yardbird

Lager:    West Hefeweizen;  St Mungo;  Black Isle Organic;     Estrella; Tennent’s

Cider:    Addlestone’s Cloudy

 Frankenstein's

Frankenstein's is a converted church which is very dark and lit by lanterns to simulate the professor's lab. With a basement and upstairs bar there is plenty of drinking spaces. The upstairs 'pew' area looks down on the main bar and drinking space. This has booth style tables against opposite wall and tall tables in centre of room.

Large screen shows films including horror evenings. The 'Monster' visits daily.

Have a pint here

Real ale:      Deuchers;  Flying Scotsman   

lager         Tennent’s; Heineken; Fosters;  Frankenstein's lager ;  1664 

cider             Strongbow

 The George IV Bar ★

The George IV Bar is by a bridge so has windows to the front and along the left-hand wall looking down on the road below. It has entrance doors to the right and left taking you into two different long narrow rooms linked at the top. The left-hand door has a small bar to the right and dining style tables along the window overlooking The Cowgate below. Beyond this area is the one linking the two rooms which has a mixture of seating and table styles.

The right-hand entrance door takes you to a narrow room with a long bar counter to the left and tall tables down the right-hand side. The decor is highly polished brown wood with ornately corniced ceiling and with lots of mirrors and pictures on all the walls. Altogether a very attractive bar.

There is also outside seating along the front of the bar.

Have a pint here.

Craft Ale:             Joker;  Coast To Coast

Bitter/Heavy:     Caledonia Best

Lager:                    Heverlee; Tennent’s; 3 Hop;  13 Hop

Cider:                    Magners                              Guinness

Links for EDINBURGH city centre Pubtrails

  • Trail 1 - Princes St to Haymarket

    (yellow icons)

    The Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar)

    Ghillie Dhu

    The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsons)

    Ryan's Bar

    HP Mather.

    The Grosvenor

    Au Bar

    Teuchters

    The Voyage of Buck (was Bert's Bar)

    Mercat Bar

    The Haymarket

    Ryries.

  • Trail 2 Haymarket to Lothian Rd

    (green icons)

    This tour of the pubs starts from Haymarket station.

    Ryries (Closed)

    The Haymarket.

    The Jolly Botanist (formerly The Spider's Web)

    Diane's Pool Hall.

    Monty’s (was Carters Bar)

    Thompsons Bar

    Lebinskis (Closed)

    Innes & Gunn Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)

    All Bar One

    Shakespeares

    Red Squirrel

  • Trail 3 - Grassmarket

    (red icons)

    The Grassmarket contains seven pubs and there is an eighth called the Grassmarket just around the corner.

    Biddy Mulligans

    Maggie Dickson's Bar

    The Last Drop

    The White Hart

    The Beehive

    The Black Bull

    Fiddlers Arms

    JC Christie & Sons (formerly The Grassmarket)

  • Trail 4 - Around Bread St

    Walk up the left hand side of Lothian Rd from Princess St and after crossing to small streets start at

    The Red Squirrel

    Shakespeare.

    Innes & Gun Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)

    All Bar One.

    The Hanging Bat.

    The Chanter

    Monboddo.

    The Footlights

    The Blue Blazer

    The Dragonfly Cocktail Bar

    W.J Christie and Son (called The Grassmarket in trail 3).

  • Trail 5 - Beyond Grassmarket

    (purple icons)

    The Castle Arms

    The Bow Bar

    Bar Salsa

    Oz Bar

    Greyfriars Bobby bar

    Sandy Bell's

    Malone's

    The Doctors.

    Boteco Do Brazil

    Paradise Palms

    Frankenstein's

    George IV Bar

  • Trail 6 - Royal Mile

    (Brown icons)

    The Ensign Ewart

    The Jolly Judge

    Deacon Brodies

    The Albanach

    The Mitre

    The Royal Mile Tavern

    The Whiski Bar

    Number 1 High St

    The Tolbooth Tavern

    The Kilderkiln.

    The return journey is

    Cannon's Gait

    The White Horse

    The Worlds End

    Inn on The Mile

    The Royal McGregor

  • Trail 7 - Cowgate

    (dark blue) -

    The Inn on The Mile

    The Tron

    The Advocate

    The City Cafe

    OX184

    Brewdog

    The Three Sisters

    Bannerman's

    Bar 50

    Holyrood 9A

    The Globe

    Whistlebinkies

  • Trail 8 - Southside

    (orange icons)

    Inn on the Mile

    Biblos

    The Royal Oak

    The Whistle Stop

    Brass Monkey

    The Captain's Bar

    The Southsider

    Greenmantle

    McSorley's

    The Dagba

    Pear Tree House

    The Blind Poet

    Andrew Usher & Co

    The Potting Shed

  • Trail 9 - Around Waverley Station

    Out one exit and around to another entrance.

    (light blue icons)

    Half Way House

    Jinglin' Geardie's.

    Scotsman' Lounge

    The Malt Shovel

    The Hebrides

    Belushi's

    The Doric

    The Booking Office

    Guildford Arms

    Cafe Royal

Some Edinburgh and the Borders area Breweries

Other large places with multiple trails

“I love cooking with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.”

— W C Fields

Other interesting pages

  • Books on Beer

    A selection of recommended books covering all aspects of beer and brewing. There are books on the history of beer and others on different styles of beer.

    For example

    An Inebriated History of Britain by Peter Haydon

    Amber, Gold & Black by Martyn Cornell

    Brew Britannia by Jessica Boak & Ray Bailey

    The Story of the Pint by Martyn Cornell

    Miracle Brew by Pete Brown

    Built to Brew by Lynn Pearson

    And many more

  • Pubs visited by Stevenson & MacKay

    Craig Stevenson and John MacKay have used their bus passes to good effect. They have toured the towns and cities of Scotland visiting pubs. They recount their adventures in a series of books:

    The Auldest Boozers in Town

    The Cheap Way Round

    Still Goin’

    Inn Aff The Bar

    Goin’ Roon The Edge

    Mud, Sweat and Beers

    MAP
  • Books on Pubs

    A selection of recommended books on pubs and their history. There are books on the social history of pubs and the design of pubs through the ages.

    There are also books on visiting pubs and ones recommending pubs to visit.

    CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide

    Death of the English Pub by Christopher Hutt

    Brewers, Brands and the Pubs in their Hands by Tony Thornton

    Licensed to Sell by Brandwood, Davidson & Slaughter

    And many more

ANSWER: Westward Ho